A week ago today I was braving the downpouring rain in Warwick, where I was
staying for a few days in pursuit of some family history background
information. The rain has continued to pour this week - but for now, I
prefer to remember some of the more pleasant parts of last weekend, when
I was able to visit some of the same places in which I imagine my great-
grandfather Thomas Latham, and his wife, Mary Amici, lived, walked and
worshipped with their 6 children.
Will you come ome for a walk with me around the town?
The first building on my route into town - and the first picture above - the Lord Leycester's Hospital, which still houses "brethren" - retired gentlemen from her Majesty's Army. Founded by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, and favourite of Queen Elizabeth 1.
I took tea later in the delightful Brethren's Kitchen - look out through the window to the timber framed buidings of the courtyard beyond.......
But first, up into the Market Square and the Saturday Market in full swing - this is where I sat, taking the opportunity to enjoy the sun outside the Tilted Wig hostelry, with a glass of wine, watching the world go by.....
Next, a stroll around the market, and a visit (of course!) to the Antiques Centre in the Square, in which this cabinet of coloured glass caught my eye. How I would have liked some of these pieces to come home with me - particularly those of blue milk glass.
Then on to visit the beautiful collegiate church of St Mary's.(to which I returned, on Sunday evening, for Choral Evensong ) The effigy on the tomb in the chancel, of Thomas Beauchamp (guardian of the Black Prince, Victor of the Battle of Crecy in 1346) and his wife Katherine is one I find very moving - for they seem to have been holding hands for six and a half centuries.
The church also houses the spectacular Beauchamp Chapel, in which are three magnificent tombs, of the aforementioned Robert Dudley himself, but also of Ambrose Dudley, and, in the centre, still gilded and glorious, that of Richard Beauchamp, the founder of the Chapel.
Here he is - and notice his hands - not together in prayer - but apart - and missing, perhaps, his Earl's coronet that was once, long ago, held there?
Sunday was a dismal day. I drove out to Tudor Charlecote House - home of the Lucy family for the last 700 years - but photographs outside were disappointing - and inside were forbidden (one of the more annoying rules decreed by the National Trust which now owns the building). There were wonderful Jacobean portraits to see - but you, dear readers, are not allowed to see them.
The gardens and park - the other glory of Charlcote - were literally a wash out. So back to Warwick for lunch and an afternoon wander around the town - but this time, always dodging the raindrops. And back to church for an uplifiting Evensong with magnificent organ accompaniment to a choral rendition of "Abide with Me" - which, as ever, left me in floods of tears - torrents both inside and outside the church!
I left the church on Sunday evening in the pouring rain which had become a feature of the weekend - but walking back to my hotel, feeling ever more like a drowned rat, my spirits were at least lifted by walking past such beautiful buidings as this one - one of many still in existance in this ancient town
And finally, not long before leaving, and as the result of a conversation with some locals, I discovered one of the places that I had come to find - the place of my great-grandfathers first recorded house in Warwick. They had told me that the street still existed - but that one side had been knocked down - they did not know which one.
I prayed that it was not "my" side - and when I arrived, I could see Number 1 - hurrah!! - great grandfather had lived in Number 51 - and the odd numbers were still there.! I had discovered the row of houses - and here are all those up to No. 47....but, yes, you've guessed it - the ones I was hoping to find had been demolished to make way for the modern one there on the right. But this is what it would have looked like - if it had still been there!
wonderful tour as always Roz...good to see you back. Feel as if I've just been there with you.
Posted by: krissie | Monday, August 21, 2006 at 06:26
What a wonderful place! It saddens me that we Americans don't treasure history like our European brothers & sisters. Your trip looks like it was wonderful, despite the rain.
Posted by: Tracy | Monday, August 21, 2006 at 14:33
Hi Roz,
Once again, thanks for taking me along with you on your trip!!!
Posted by: Nancy | Wednesday, August 23, 2006 at 02:53
It's 1:12am here on Long Island, New York. I need to get to bed but I checked your site and saw that you had once again posted and I was carried away to England to enjoy just a bit of it before bed.
Thank you so much for giving this never-been-to-England-Anglophile a bit of candy to enjoy for a while.
Stephanie
Posted by: stephanie | Thursday, August 24, 2006 at 06:12
Lovely, Roz. Did you get to the doll museum? What beautiful buildings - ah, I remember some of those places (though not the half-timbered one)
Posted by: ardi | Thursday, August 24, 2006 at 14:37
I so much loved the walk with you. Thanks alot for taking me with you.
Posted by: Britt-Arnhild | Sunday, August 27, 2006 at 09:51
Hello Roz, thanks for this enchanting glimpse into your world!! Its so interesting and beautiful...and very different from our little towns.
Posted by: Maggie Ann | Monday, August 28, 2006 at 19:39