Autumn Cottage Diarist

New Year's Eve 2020 - a Wander in the Winter Gardens

A relaxing (I hope!) ten minutes in the Winter Gardens of the Sir Harold Hillier Gardens and Arboretum.

This has been a bit of a year, hasn't it? Wishing you all a much happier 2021!

 

Golden Days before the Winter Dark

We have recently been blessed with some of those glorious, golden autumn days that often occur around this time of the year - days when everything seems to stand still, when not a leaf moves or a bird flies by; days that have the remnants of sultry summer days, but also a component of change - subtle ripening that builds to the rosy abundance of harvest time .

We took some time on Monday to get out and about to enjoy the countryside while the weather is still good. As an inveterate church crawler, I often put an itinerary together as a ‘steeple chase’,  creating a navigation pathway amongst villages,  between church and church, spires and towers.

I've mentioned before that I consider the British parish church to be one of the greatest repositories of People’s art hidden away in full view; even for those without religious beliefs, I have found at least one item of artistic merit (in my eyes at least) in every church that I have ever encountered, that is worth seeking out or at least being pleasantly surprised by on a fleeting visit. The experience is even more pleasurable if you can read the symbology behind so many of the artefacts and adornments inside and out of the building itself, and I would always recommend gaining a little knowledge of what may be found there before paying a visit.

Our first stop was not, however a tiny village, but the larger town of Bampton at the hub of our ‘visit wheel’ which has, over the last decade, become known internationally as one of the locations in which ‘Downton Abbey’ has been filmed. It's a town barely larger than a village, so it was not surprising to see both enthusiastic evidence of the filming and the tourist influx which has been created, in the form of ‘The Downton Mile’ – a  hand drawn map, which you can download here (and also watch a very interesting short video narrated by Hugh Bonneville on the history of the Old Grammar School).  But there was also a notice in one residence complaining of the fact that 30,000 visitors had ‘besieged’ the town (with  a population of round only 2,600 in 2019), which I can quite imagine must have given a sense of being invaded rather than visited. Downton Abbey did not bring joy to everyone!

St Mary's Church

'Mrs Crawley's'

The Old Grammar School, now Library ('Downton Cottage Hospital')

The charm of the town does not just hinge on the fact that it became ‘Downton’ however – much of the characterful, prosperous architecture hails from the 17^th & 18^th century - being a market town built on the thriving wool trade since at least the 13^th century. It also has a claim to fame as having a particularly enthusiastic Morris Dance tradition – a pursuit that is commemorated in this market square mosaic – and in the name of a local pub!

After a light lunch, we meandered slowly back - but what we hadn't bargained on when we ventured out on our meander was that, although churches in our own County are now by and large open for private prayer, in other counties it is not necessarily the same. In the area we visited (known as ‘The Land of the 12 Churches’), those that I had placed on our itinerary were all still locked. Some of them had notices declaring that the key was with a key holder if we wanted access, but these would have been time consuming to track down, so we contented ourselves with wandering around four small, very peaceful Cotswold villages, just enjoying their ancient vernacular architecture.

Alvescot

There is nothing quite so delightful as wandering around a little English village in September sunlight, with hardly another person around; most of our encounters were with workmen, carefully repairing old stone walls - and even that was a joy to behold, to see ancient structures being loved and cared for, their future ensured for another century. We ended up  in the villages of Alvescot, Black Bourton, Kencot and Broadwell,  and though the churches were closed - no matter, as there were still the churchyards to explore! It was just a delight to wander around the  little village lanes and alleyways, gathering photographs - the only souvenirs I usually collect these days.

Kencot

 And at our last stop, the lovely autumnal sight of four Crab apple trees inside the church wall, bending low with fruit. It was only when we took a walk around that churchyard that we noticed that the trees were depositing much of their fruit on the ground inside the wall, abundantly spread and many already rotting.

Broadwell

We thus felt no guilt whatsoever in gathering up the ripe, unblemished fruit in a carrier bag to bring home with us. That bag is now sitting in the kitchen, awaiting attention this afternoon to be turned into a batch of Crabapple jam to join the jars of Blackberry and Apple jam and the Fig and Date chutney which are now sitting on  my pantry shelves. (Update – all now bubbling in the slow cooker 😊 )

I often ponder on what I see offered to visitors to my country as examples of ‘typical Britain”, and I think it must sometimes be a disappointment to be presented with a tawdry,  ‘Disneyfied’ picture of ‘Ye Olde England’. The chances are that if you are visiting as part of a coach load on a whistle stop tour of the popular  ‘sites’, you won't really see old England (or Wales or Scotland). But the footprint and the fabric of our history IS very much still there - down a little one track lane, accessible probably only in quite a small car - or on foot. It won't have souvenir stalls or fast food, but if you can find it (and I can tell you where to look), in one’s and two’s (four at the most), you will be rewarded with restrained beauty, peace and tranquillity, living history and a courteous but possibly rather reserved British  welcome.

But if you can't get here, I plan many more ventures down those little country lanes,  and it will be my pleasure to take you along with me.

I haven't Gone Away!

Just a week since I wrote my last ‘Month in the Country’ post and it has seemed strange everyday since to not be writing every day; but I enjoyed getting back into the blogging habit again, so hopefully you'll enjoy reading these updates on a more regular basis.

The autumn is well and truly with us, but at the moment we are enjoying some very pleasant autumn days - that is, apart from the one day we chose to make a family outing last week, to the Cotswold wildlife park, when we were treated to a heavy downpour from midday onwards; Sods law in all its glory! I still enjoyed myself with my camera - I rarely buy a souvenir of anything anywhere these days (not that it would be easy with most of the ‘attraction’ shops still closed due to social distancing), my souvenirs nowadays are collected purely through a camera lens .

Clouded Leopard

On Friday, a very happy return – to the Hungerford Antiques Arcade, which I last visited before lockdown. Fully masked up, of course, but not a high level of anxiety, as there were hardly any shoppers there. Only a short browse – but I found that both Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I wanted to come home with me!

I'm also starting out on a different sort of new adventure this week; my husband has finally retired after 45 years of hard work, creating innovative computer equipment which has resulted in the employment of hundreds of other people – I think he can be very proud of that. It came unexpectedly in the end,  though he was planning on departing in the next year or two, having already worked past the UK retirement age, and now I think he deserves to enjoy his leisure time (not too much though - I have a list of jobs ready and waiting for him!!) HIS adventure will be in deciding what to do with that leisure time and both our adventures will be in adapting to these new circumstances - interesting times lie ahead!

One thing with which we are blessed is the fact that we live in some beautiful countryside, so for even only a short car journey away there are many country parks and country walks that we will both enjoy together or separately. Indeed, we only have to step out of our front door to wander in Forestry Commission and private woodland. Yesterday morning we were able to take a walk around the Lake at Thatcham Discovery Centre on the other side of town, renovated gravel pits that are now home to a large variety of wildfowl.

Very popular with photographers - and mothers with small children who are able to introduce their little ones to wildlife up close, hopefully instilling a love of the natural world from very early days. Here are a few photographs from last week - aren't I lucky to enjoy my freedom to visit these places and the fitness to be able to do so?

Return to the Garden

Back to one of our very favourite places - gradually emerging from lockdown

 

 

Loosening up on Lockdown!

A few hours away from home, now that Government regulations are slowly loosened

 

 

Village Gardens on a Summer Sunday in June

The local Parish opened its gardens yesterday...Put your comfy shoes on, and come take a walk with me...

 

The Drama of Gardens in Winter

Hammamelis (Witch Hazel) - sweet scented and blazing with colour

A perfect start to the year - a few hours at Hilliers,  Gardens of my Heart; starting off as a clear blue-skied day, clouding over after lunch. I've never seen the place so crowded…there was a (free) Guided Walk at 2 pm and there must have been 200 people in the crocodile. Fortunately we had taken our walk by then - I'm not much of a 'group doer' of anything in the countryside (or anywhere else, for that matter!)

As usual, we had a delicious lunch in the first class café, which I have also never seen so crowded. In fact, I've not seen the whole gardens so full before, but one of the beauties of the place is that  there is always plenty of space there for one to never feel cramped and for children to run off  steam in a most satisfying manner!

The guided walk Crocodile!

We sat outside, wrapped up against a slight chill but in the sun, which always makes the dogwoods surrounding the veranda glow so beautifully. Today I had a vegan sweet potato chili with rice and nachos. (Oh, how eating in the outdoor air enhances the appetite!)  We are never  disappointed, the quality and value of the food there is exceptional, and we often make the 45 minute drive there just to have lunch.

The 'cafe dogwoods'

Here are a few images of our walk - as you can see, there is much to see even at what is often considered the most barren time of the year. Look closer - it is not barren at all. Snowdrops and daffodils are already appearing, and the beauty of the naked trees - their colourful and varied barks, their bark and branch patterns, their twists and turns are both visually entrancing and evocative of the places which were once the (not so far in the past) home for much of humankind.

Sun through Birch barkBetula utilis and a beautiful blue sky!
Snowdrops
Daffodils - a very early variety

A fabulously gnarled burr on - I think - a Maple
Cornus sanguinea (Dogwood) - 'Midwinter Fire'
The wintertime drama of the naked trees - hidden in the summer

I'm looking even closer now that I have begun the rather wonderful, year long 'Tongues in Trees' course with novelist, poet, eco-warrior and mentor Roselle Angwin - so much beauty and learning stored up for me to immerse myself for twelve lovely months…my Soul is already soothed and restored.

Gunnera leaves cut down, protecting their tender growing points through Winter.

Always Hunting Blue and White!

The ice-cream colours of the houses in Llandeilo

Our week in Wales was spent just outside the charming little town of Llandeilo - a place where a smile and more than a brief chat seems to be the order of the day. It's how I grew up - in a time and a place where people had time for each other and those 'few kind words' of which I am so fond can still brighten anyone's day. Even Llandeilo has changed from the first visits we made there just six years ago, though - there is a noticeable increase in little boutique shops, lovely cake and coffee (and luxury chocolate) shops, and interesting galleries.

But one thing that has not changed is the absolutely enormous Antiques Emporium at the bottom of the town. It is like a rabbit warren and just goes on…and on…and on. At its farthest reaches, I did, at one point, seriously wonder if I was lost, as room led onto courtyard, which led back into another container, down a corridor - into another room, and another…and another.

Just the sort of delicious mixture of items that I love to hunt through...

I ended up 'navigating by dresser' - using several of the beautiful Welsh dressers in the Centre and their contents to retrace my steps by looking at the order of the photographs I had taken. As you can see, they all seemed to have one thing in common - they were LOADED with all sorts of Blue & White china - and anyone reading this blog over the years will know just how much I love that.

Never 'out of place', Blue & White china (and textiles, and paint colours) never seems to date; there are pieces that will fit into any interior - and interiors decorated in those colours become 'instant classics' whose owners are - in my eyes - blessed with the most superior good taste! Perhaps - most of all, I love the fact that pieces of Blue & White can be picked up for pennies in thrift/charity shops, junk shops, antique shops, car boot/yard sales; everything will (pretty much) go with everything else, and always look wonderful. (Just my humble opinion - what's yours?)

So here's a taste of one or two  dressers and shelves and their treasures upon which to feast your eyes. (I was very restrained and only came out with two little items - which you can see at the bottom of this blog…).

Not only plates here - but also a striking collection of blue & white jugs (though I would never recommend hanging jugs or cups by their handles - it weakens them and then you have a disaster waiting to occur!)

A mixture of blues and whites - including a lovely slate-blue & white woven Welsh blanket

A very fine array of old Staffordshire and Spode plates on a beautiful antique Welsh dresser

If you would like to read more about Welsh dressers (and see a lot more blue and white china!) - Mark Allum has written an interesting blog about them here - while for a feast of whole rooms decorated in B&W - take a look in here

These were the two little Victorian fairings that I picked up at the Antiques Centre - tiny items, just a few inches high and one (the 'Sleepy Girl') opening to contain pins.

I'm sure I can find space for them both!

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Meandering the August Days Away

A planted trough in the late summer sunshine, Tetbury

There's a feeling in the air…the summer has imperceptibly turned into very early autumn…the last days of school holidays have arrived…leaves are beginning to turn and fall, the swallows were gathering on the wires last week as I drove to Hungerford. It's a good ending to August - the temperatures have risen again and it's a delight to be out and about in the golden light. But that delight is tempered by a feeling of 'making the best of things' - for it is certain that in the weeks to come, though there will (hopefully) be many more days of sunshine, there will also be increasingly long nights and chillier mornings…we turn towards the darker days of the year.

So it was in that spirit of enjoying each day fully that we set off last Thursday to visit one of our favourite parts of the countryside here in the UK - the hills and valleys, villages and towns, churches and market places of the Cotswold Hills in Gloucestershire. The Cotswolds became prosperous in medieval times as a result of the high quality of wool produced by sheep grazing on fine pasture land - a prosperity that financed the beautiful architecture of the towns and churches, which have hence become known as 'wool churches', filled with notable glass, wood carvings and elaborate tombs.

 
Charming alleyways, hidden corners - Tetbury

The towns and villages are also a pleasure to just wander around (one of my favourite activities), exploring narrow alleyways and tiny courtyards in search of all manner of interesting and unusual shops. Last week's little trail took us to the towns of Stroud, Tetbury, and in between (and fleetingly) Minchinhampton. (Don't those names roll deliciously round the tongue?!). We are very fond of Tetbury and seem to discover more intriguing shops and buildings each time we visit - but we had not made our way to Stroud before. We arrived in rain, but left - after an excellent Italian lunch (proper Italian, too, with Bocelli on the radio!) - in bright sunlight, to climb up a narrow road along the steep scarp slope to Minchinhampton.

Covered Arcade, The Shambles, Stroud

Plaque in the covered Arcade

A cheeky Squirrel, fossicking in the churchyard of St Laurence

High on the top of the hill with Minchinhampton Common (owned by the National Trust) spreading for 500 acres all round, we did, in fact, manage to take a right rather than a left and in so doing - missed the centre of the town completely!! No worries, as this led us down some lovely, peaceful lanes with striking views across the valley to remote farms on the other side - and everywhere…sheep, sheep and more sheep. (I love sheep - so this made me very happy!)

Sheep happy-scratching against a dry stone wall, outskirts of Minchinhampton

We arrived in Tetbury in time to spend a good couple of hours investigating a real variety of shops - some very 'High End' antiques - with their doors closed and discrete displays in back rooms into which only the very wealthy (or very naïve) were venturing, to a number of very enticing charity shops at the other end of the spectrum (though even the 'stuff' in the charity shops was definitely of some quality as befits discards from this affluent community).

Top Banana!

One of my own personal favourite places to browse was in the five floors of the 'Top Banana Antiques Emporium' - where numerous dealers offer items of a huge variety and in all price ranges. The owners have created a really welcoming atmosphere - I will certainly revisit next time I am there; more than enough in that one building to make a couple of hours in the town worthwhile if you are just passing through.

Many nooks and crannies, containing many treasures, over five floors

The lovely, friendly proprietors of Top Banana - with a little purchase that needed to come home with me!

We had parked at the other end of town, so were positively compelled to browse in a number of other shops on our way back to the car! To gasp at the prices in the Highgrove shop (The 'Prince Charles Premium' heavily applied!!), to partake of coffee and cake in one of the best coffee shops on the planet...

The wonderfully crazy, exhuberant Rainbow interior of the Blue Zucchini Brasserie in Tetbury

...and the serene back courtyard garden - a heavenly place to take tea

...raid the cheese shop next door and then be entranced by the beauty and interest of some of the Asian artefacts on display and for sale in Artique; this was a most intriguing shop/gallery with a wonderfully serene atmosphere and a very memorable welcome from the owner, George Bristow. Even though we bought nothing on this occasion, I am drawn back to re-visit - both because of his genuine warmth and willingness to share his knowledge of the items - and for an intense longing to acquire something from the interesting and unusual artefacts for sale there.

Beautiful Asian artefacts - Artique 

An obligatory (for church crawling me) visit to the church of St Mary, another encounter with and contemplation of the beautiful and enigmatic 'Mary' murals in the entrance -

'The Annunciation'

and home again, along the noisy, pressurised route of the M4 motorway - only a few miles on the map but a million miles in atmosphere from the enchanting Cotswold countryside.

We're already planning our next visit...

The Market Hall, Tetbury

 

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'Twas a Misty, Moisty Morning...

... outside my office window today; the vine leaves are turning…pale yellow, gold, rusting red; I couldn't see the fields to either side of the house - an almost impenetrable grey blanketing shrouded them, hanging in the air, hiding the originators of the birdsong which floated through, ethereally, disembodied. Closer to the house, near to the bird table, a Magpie was waiting on the pergola…waiting to dive down to eat the left-over cat food that I had put out from last night - nothing wasted here!…

Two Robins were shouting at each other, while an insignificant little Dunnock sat in the arch branches, waiting for this morning's offerings of breadcrumbs, grated cheese and sunflower seed. (Oh dear...I have run out of sunflower seed. ) The pervading atmosphere was of a stillness, a waiting between two seasons, though the direction is inevitable. The year turns, we move on towards the darker days, longer nights and falling leaves. All is as it should be.

…but inside Autumn Cottage, all has changed. Semi retirement has arrived for one of the inhabitants - and with it, a new pattern to my days. Surprisingly, with more leisure time has come much more activity - more 'getting out and about' - more living life, more seen, more done, more created, more recorded. I don't think I'm alone in realising that there is not enough time in one lifetime to squeeze in all that one begins to appreciate as we age - but that does not stop me trying!

Over just the last two weeks, here are some of the places that have been 'on the menu' for me - and I'm looking forward to sharing many more tasty bites to come!

Two flaming trees at the entrance to The Sir Harold Hillier Gardens & Arboretum

Pampas grass planted to great effect, with the sunlight streaming through them in the Winter Garden

The Lower Pool

Nerines outside Jermyn's House

Red leaved Banana (Musa) with Buddleia

Spectacular autumn colour in the Centennial Border

Even more spectacular bark on a Tilia (Lime) tree in the Education garden - wonderful inspiration for textile (and other) artists

Virginia creeper + ? on the end wall of the Education Centre

 

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