One Enchanted Evening....

The principal reason for travelling in the way that we did was, as
readers of this blog already know, to retrace the steps of two English
Ladies who travelled in 1906 to Venice, as part of a three week European
tour.

During their time in Venice, the ladies stayed for two nights at the
Grand Hotel Britannia, and then "the hotel being rather full", they moved
"next door" to the Hotel Milan, "a dependence of the Britannia". The
Grand Hotel Britannia still exists, but is now part of the five star
Westin Hotel Europa & Regina, and it was to the manager of this hotel
that I wrote, a few weeks before we travelled to Venice, not really
expecting even a reply, to tell him of our visit and the fact that the
Ladies had stayed there one hundred years ago.

Imagine my surprise, therefore, when not only did I receive a very
charming reply but also an invitation to take tea with him, so that I
could show him the journal and give him more details of the ladies stay
there. The anticipation and excitement notched up even further if that
was possible, so that our appointment, on Thursday afternoon, 19th
October, was awaited with eager anticipation by both Liz and myself.

The weather had been kind to us for the five days since our arrival,
but, as is the way of these things, had turned gloomy and damp on THE
day - so instead of our selected finery, we arrived for tea wearing
rather more practical garments - and at once walked into a magical realm
of charm, courtesy and delight.

For the next hour, Hotel Manager Ciro Verrocchi and PR manager Francesca
Forni gave us one hundred per cent of their attention, while the staff
of the hotel conjured up for us the most perfect tea.

We were seated on
luxurious banquettes, surrounded with sumptuous textiles, beautiful
paintings of Venice, and other sculptural works of art, while an ever
increasing tableau of delicacies arrived - tiny sandwiches, dainty
cakes, feather light pastries, mouth-watering sweet morsels of the
finest confectioner's art...hot toast and three different teas, all
proffered with the most discrete charm as the finest practitioners of
the art of waiting upon guests are able to do - a lost art which was a
delight to see was still present here.

  Sr Verrocchi was called away after a while, so we were left in the company of Sra Forni, who generously gave us even more of her time, to tell us of the complicated history of the hotels, which she has spent the last eight years piecing together. After giving me a most interesting folder of engravings and quotes about the hotels, she then took us on a guided tour, with permission to take photographs as we went about.

The hotel glittered with opulence - Murano glass chandeliers, polychrome marble floors - into the Grand Salon, where the portrait of Mr Walther, the Manager 100 years ago, still hangs, through the courtyard garden - (once upon a time a gondola builders yard) and out onto the terrace.

There, a very lucky wedding party were about to celebrate a magical wedding, and Liz & I could look across to the same view had by the Ladies, to the Dogana and the Salute, and even  sideways, to the salmon pink Hotel Milan - now a private residence, I believe, that we would have
known nothing about if Francesca had not shown us an old photograph of the building with the name of the "Hotel Milan" still upon it.

Tiny lights twinkled along the edge of the terrace, reflecting upon the waters of the Grand Canal, the gondoliers out on the water sang most beautifully, Liz & I were transported.

We were transported back 100 years during that hour, so that we, too, were able to enjoy the grace and courtesy of a bygone age. Seemingly effortless luxury and courtesy may be a matter of day to day routine for the staff of this hotel, but for us, it was truly the highlight of our visit, and a time for which both Liz and I are very, very grateful.

  I hope that the gift of an enlargement of one of the few old photographs taken by May Merewether, of the now defunct Ascension Day "Bridge of Boats" across the Grand Canal to the Salute will be just a tiny addition to the archive which Francesca is collecting, and to which I hope to be able to add as time goes by.

The detective work continues - but the memories will never fade. For a magical hour, one autumn night in Venice, both Liz and I had our dreams come true through the kindness of others.

Comments

[Britt-Arnhild]

Dearest Roz.
This is absolutely wonderful. Oh, how I wish I was a fly on the wall during your visit.
Lovely photos and absolute glorious words.
I do hope that you seriously consider writing a book about your old lady!

[Darla]

Each part of the journey is even better than the last one. I think it is terrific that you'll be keeping in touch with the people at the hotel and sharing photo's and information with them when you can.

[Loretta]

How truly magical and fantastical, Roz! I can only smile to imagine The Two ladies looking down from heaven and marveling over your find of the diary and your trip in their footsteps.

Goodness, it's so much better than a movie!

[krissie]

Roz, That photo of the lights twinkling surely has to be my favourite, a delightful mix of water and lights and gondoliers, has transported me to heaven!
I have an old 78 record, must dig it out one day....it is about a gondolier as he sings to his girl violetta in his gondola...that photo really reminded me of that record....its a crackly old old one...wonder if it still plays!

[Deb]

Oh Roz, your photos and stories are magnificent! It's been 16 years since I spent one short afternoon in Venice. It was only a taste. I now long for a complete repast of Venitian delights. I think I must soon plan a return trip to Italy.

[Marie-Noëlle]

After reading a magazine article about Coco Chanel in Venice (post 5046 at Armchairtrav.), I feel delighted to visit Venice "in the wake of Roz and Liz".
By the way could you send Liz my regards (and my thanks for taking care of you !)

[vicci_ann]

I have just found your blog...and I am in LOVE...it has always been my dream to go to Italy...and reading your blog made me feel like I was there! Thank-you so much...

[Luxie]

I don't think I can find the precise words to articulate how delightful your blog is...It so felt like I travelled with the both of you.

Thank you very much..

[carolyn]

Roz what a dleightful post and how lovely a tea. So glad I read this and so late in coming to read it. But I sure enjoyed.

[FrenchGardenHouse]

oh, Roz, you are right! I love this....I agree with Britt...:)

Looks like you had an absolutely wonderful time.
Lidy